Working in rescue I see countless adult and senior dogs, usually from puppy mills, that have NEVER worn a collar or harness much less walked on leash. For these dogs being trained to loose leash walk can be a very stressful and sometimes frightening experience even when the handler is calm and focused. Not only are we putting foreign objects on their body but we are also asking them to follow us wherever we go. For shy and fearful dogs this can be a challenge. The question I am often asked is, "How can these dogs be safely and effectively trained to loose leash walk?" My short answer is, "With patience, patience and more patience coupled with the correct, positive based training techniques and equipment."
Now here's the long answer:
STEP #1: TEACH THE DOG THAT THE COLLAR AND HARNESS ARE NOT TORTURE DEVICES
As stated above, many adult and even senior dogs from puppy mills, have never been exposed to wearing a collar or harness. The simple act of putting these objects on them for the first time can be challenging. Here's a safe and less stressful way to get them into the collar and harness.
Place the collar and harness on the floor near the dog. They should come up to sniff them. When they do give them smelly and tasty treats. Hot dogs are a great choice! If they do not come near them -- which, since you are working with a shy/fearful dog, they may not -- place some treats on the collar and harness so that the dog has to touch the objects in order to get the treats. After a couple rounds of this the dog should realize that the objects are not going to jump up and bite them.
Next you can work on getting the collar and harness on the dog. This can be a bit trickier. Make sure you still have lots of treats available to give the dog. Start by holding the collar/harness out towards the dog. When they sniff or touch it give them a treat. Repeat this many times! Next touch the dog with the collar/harness and give them a treat. Again repeat until the dog is comfortable being touched by the collar/harness, but do not repeat until the dog stresses out. If they start to get stressed stop and come back to this later when the dog is calmer. Also make sure you move slowly and let the dog see you coming when working on this step. Startling the dog could set you a few steps backwards.
Once the dog is comfortable being touched by the collar/harness you can start working on getting the collar/harness on the dog. Start by holding the collar harness in front of the dog and hold a treat so that the dog has to put their nose through the collar/harness to get the treat. Start with the treat very close so that they only have to put their nose just a little ways through the collar/harness to be rewarded. Gradually increase the distance between the treat and the collar/harness until they have to put their head all the way through to get the treat. When hooking the harness around the dog make sure to give them lots of treats to distract them while you are hooking them in.
This lengthy process is called desensitization. Through positive motivation you are teaching the dog that the collar and harness will not hurt them and that they do not need to be concerned about them. Once these are on I will generally leave them on the dog for a period of time so that they can get use to the feel of having them on their body. Likely you will need to repeat the process of treating them each time you need to put their collar/harness on until they are completely desensitized to them.
STEP #2: DRAGGING LEASH INSIDE
Once the dog has their collar/harness on I always attach a leash to them to drag around the house. Many people underestimate just how easy and yet effective this tool is.
**IMPORTANT! Never let a dog drag leash unless you are directly supervising them. Otherwise the leash could get tangled and the dog could be injured. In addition I prefer to attach the leash to a harness rather than the collar because of the risk of strangulation**
By having a shy/fearful dog drag leash you can accomplish a number of things including increasing the dog's confidence and aiding in the bonding process. Here's how and why:
1) First, by having the dog drag leash you are helping them become desensitized to it. Initially they might jump around trying to figure out what is constantly following them around. Give the dog a treat, toy, chew, or whatever will get their mind off of the leash. When they are being calm while wearing the leash praise and treat them.
2) You can prevent instances of having to chase the dog around the house to get the leash on. Do not underestimate how doing so can damage the bond you have built up. For shy/fearful dogs this can be a major setback. Since they are already wearing the leash all you have to do is pick it up to get them to come with you. No fuss and no stress for either of you!
3) The leash is the last thing that will pass you if the dog door bolts and is easy to step on to make sure the dog does not get away. Many dogs door bolt for various reasons. For shy/fearful dogs the reason is often that they have been startled or are feeling stressed and they are taking the first chance at "freedom" they see. Do not get me wrong, the best remedy for door bolting is prevention. Always know where the dog is BEFORE you, a family member, or guest open any door to the outside. Crating is always the best way to prevent an escape, but accidents happen even to experienced dog owners.
4) If the dog decides to hide you can easily lure them out with treats and gentle leash tugs to get them out with the attached leash rather than awkwardly grabbing the dog to pull them out. Doing so could potentially risk a bite and of course since the dog is hiding because of fear or stress being pulled out by a leg or tail will not decrease those feelings. Many puppy mill dogs are handled roughly on the rare occasions they are actually receiving human contact, so rough handling can invoke fear responses. Always be gentle, slow, calm, and let a shy/fearful dog see you coming.
STEP #3: DOUBLE LEASHING
This is an important safety measure that is often overlooked or unknown pet owners when first bringing home a new dog. It's a great tool whether a dog is shy/fearful, new to leash walking, or even well adjusted. So what is double leashing? Well it looks something like this:
Two leashes are being used, one attached to the collar and one attached to the harness
Or this:
The leash is attached to a coupler, which is attached to the collar and harness
Or even this:
A leash with two hooks, one at each end is attached to the collar and harness
So you may be asking what the purpose of double leashing is. It has many purposes actually. First and foremost as stated earlier it is an important safety measure when introducing a shy/fearful dog to leash walking. Often these dogs will startle and stress when they feel the pressure from the leash. Pressure should never be intentionally applied when introducing leash walking but it is generally inevitable with dogs that are learning to leash walk. For those that are shy/fearful they may attempt to free themselves from what is causing them stress, the collar, harness and leash.
Having owned Shibas for almost a decade, a breed known for their ability to wriggle out of even properly fitted collars and harnesses, I have experienced more than one escape. For breeds like Shibas, that can easily slip their heads out of a traditional buckle collar due to the streamline shape of their heads, I recommend using a martingale collar or limited slip collar. These collars gently tighten as the dog put pressure on them preventing them from slipping their heads out. These collars do not need to be tightened to the point where the dog is nearly choking as a traditional buckle collar does for breeds like Shibas, and it only tightens up some, unlike a choke chain which will continue to tighten and can cause injury if used improperly.
**IMPORTANT! Martingale collars and limited slip collars should only ever be used when walking your dog. Do not ever leave them on your dog while they are unattended or crated. Even though they only tighten up a little, there is still a risk of strangulation should the dog get the collar caught on something.**
Double leashing helps to prevent a scary collar or harness slipping escape. By having the leash attached to both the dog's collar and harness, should the dog manage to slip out of one the other will still be on them. The dog will still be under your control, and most important of all the dog will still be safe. Shy/fearful dogs have a higher risk of collar and harness slipping because oftentimes they will back up when startled or stressed and will continue to do so until they break free. Double leashing gives you that extra precaution and some additional time to help calm the dog without as much risk of them escaping.
STEP #4: LEARNING TO WALK ON LEASH
When training a shy/fearful dog to walk on leash you want to start slow and work with as few distractions as possible in an environment that the dog is comfortable in. This is why it is important to go through all the desensitization exercises described above. In addition you do not want to start training the dog to walk on leash outside immediately. Instead, inside your home, where the dog has likely started to feel comfortable, is the best choice.
Remember those smelly and tasty treats? You'll need lots of them again! With the dog double leashed and at your side take a couple small and slow steps forward. The dog probably won't move with you the first few times, so encourage them. Talk gently, pat your leg, do whatever will get the dog to follow. If you need to lure them forward with the treats that's fine too! Just DO NOT pull them forward with the leash. You want to keep the experience as calm and rewarding as possible. When they come up next to you reward them with lots of treats. Repeat this over and over and over. If at any time the dog looks like they are getting stressed, stop and resume training at another time. Likewise do not push the dog until they are stressed. Always end training sessions on a good note! Remember you want the dog to like leash walking, not fear it.
Once the dog has gotten the hang of walking inside your home can progress to leash walking outdoors. It is especially important to have the dog double leashed at this time since by going outside you will be adding more distractions and more stress. Again start by working in a place where the dog is comfortable and distractions are minimized. Your backyard is generally an excellent choice especially if it is fenced. However if this option is not available to you, for instance if you live in the city and do not have a backyard, then find somewhere that is quiet and away from traffic, such as a park or a side street. Work with the dog in the same way you did inside your home. Take a few steps, encouraging the dog to follow you, and treat them generously when they do. Even if you were able to take 10 steps inside your home with the dog right at your side it is very likely they will revert back to not wanting to move. That is okay, you are teaching them that leash walking outside is no different than leash walking inside. Start by only taking a few steps at a time. Gradually you will be able to build up to 10 steps, then 20, down to the corner, and eventually a full walk with a confident dog at your side. And as always during the training process, always stop immediately if the dog gets stressed!
A FEW FINAL NOTES
Remember, when training a dog you must always work at the dog's pace. Some dogs will adapt and learn faster than others, some will do so slower. It's important to know the dog you are working with and to recognize signs of stress such as panting, whale eyes (where you can see the whites of their eyes), sweaty paws, and shaking. Cease training immediately and seek a professional dog trainer's advice for any aggressive signs such as lip lifting, growling or snapping. You should never push a dog to this point with training which is why it is very important to stop once signs of stress are seen.
When working with a shy/fearful dog patience is the key. There is a reason the dog is shy/fearful, always keep that in mind. Keep sessions fun and end on a positive note every time. Treats are especially important so always keep them handy!
Remember to enjoy working with your dog! Not only are you training them you are also building your relationship at the same time. They are more sensitive than you might realize. If you are feeling stressed out they will too. If you are happy and carefree it is much easier to keep them in that mindset as well.
Happy training!
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